ASG Sewing Blog – Page 15

September 15, 2023

Wearable Art with Asian Flair (preview)

Creating wearable art satisfies the desire for something special to wear, the craving you feel to express yourself, and a reason to use the luscious fabrics and threads you just bought. Now, what to make? Why not create a garment that takes you to a land far away… to an exotic place of serenity and ancient culture… to a place where style is timeless, tradition is honored, and nature is the essence of life? Creating wearable art with Asian flair allows you to fulfill that fantasy. Just select a simple pattern, colors that appeal to you, fabrics and motifs that inspire, and sewing techniques to embellish. Collect your treasured items and find some time for yourself.

The full article is in the Members area of the website. CLICK HERE to read the full article. Not a member? Join online!

September 8, 2023

Sticking to It: Glue in Your Sewing Projects

OMG—for some of you, the very thought of using glue with any sewing project probably makes your inner home economics teacher cringe! But take a deep breath and consider that it could be a helpful tool when used properly.

Check Points

There are a number of types of glues on the market, and they’re used for very different purposes. Almost all can be helpful for sewing projects, but before you choose a glue, check out these basics by reading the label:

Is the glue suitable for use on porous surfaces like fabric?
Is the glue washable? This can actually mean two things—that the glue is temporary and will wash out, or that it can withstand washing and remain intact, so double check.
Is it permanent or temporary?
How long does it take to dry to the touch and to cure (the time needed for the chemical bonding)?
Is the glue repositionable, so something like an appliqué can be moved from one place to the other? Some glues are temporarily repositionable, then become permanent when they cure.
Does it dry clear and flexible? Flexibility is especially important if you’re using it on a knit garment, so that it doesn’t crack when the fabric stretches.
Is it non-toxic and acid-free to avoid damaging fabric?
Can you stitch through the glued area without damaging the sewing machine or the needle?
Is it colored, or does it have glitter with the glue for embellishing?

Getting it on

Glues can be applied in a variety of ways. Most come with a narrow tip applicator, but some come with a brush tip allowing for a broader application. Glue pens and sticks are also available, some offering twist-up applicators, and some pens that are refillable. Spray glues are also available for covering larger areas, but be sure to protect your work surface from overspray by covering it with plastic or paper.

For very fine applications, like individual beads or trim lines, look for needle-tip bottles, or apply the glue with a toothpick for precise placement.

Crafters Companion Glue Applicators available on Amazon.

If you’re opting for hot glue, a glue gun heats the glue stick for application, and that tool may come with assorted tips depending on what you’re using it for. Hot glue is harder to control, but it’s ideal for things like home décor uses like fabric headboards, etc. where fabric is being attached to another surface, like wood. But do note that hot glue can melt synthetic fabrics very quickly, so best to use another glue option for those.

Where might you use glue?

Tear Mender Instant Fabric and Leather Adhesive available on Amazon.

Adding embellishments to fabric items you can’t get into the sewing machine, like shoes, baseball caps, sun visors, etc.
Plextone 1 Min Quick Bonding Fast Dry Sew Glue available on Amazon.
Temporary repairs, like a torn pocket or hem, until you can get to your sewing machine.
Holding buttons in place until they’re sewn on.
Keeping sew-in interfacings in place. Just put tiny dots within the seam allowances between the fabric and interfacing layers.
Attaching jewels, rhinestones, crystals or beads permanently without the need to sew them.
Applying ribbons or trims, lace and appliqués temporarily (until sewn) or permanently.
Hemming garments made from non-porous fabrics like leather (faux or real) or suede.
Finishing cord ends that tend to fray.
Basting zippers in place for sewing.
Creating temporary appliqués like for seasonal costumes.
Adding glitter or foil to a fabric surface.
Keeping seam allowances from fraying y using a very narrow bead along the edge.

So, before you cringe at the thought of glue for sewing uses, think again—it could be the perfect solution.

~Linda Griepentrog is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and three dogs, Yohnuh, Abby, and Lizzie. Contact her at .

September 1, 2023

Front Fly Zipper in Slacks or Jeans

The traditional fly zipper you see on a commercially made pair of jeans or slacks works well in a manufacturing environment because special machines can make them very quickly, even though it is not necessarily the best technique or finished product. A mock fly is a great option for home sewers and is a good compromise that gives the same look but is much more practical. This method is a very deep-set version of a lapped zipper that requires little extra preparation to be successful.

Getting Started

1. Make the following marks on the fabric section. (See Figure 1)

Make a dot at the Bottom of the zipper. (#1 on diagram)
Make a dot at the Beginning of Stitching. (#2 on diagram)
Make a clip at the top of the Center Front line. (#3 on diagram)

2. Stitch from the bottom opening dot (#2 on diagram) down 2 1/2″ towards the inseam using very small stitches. Do not sew the entire seam!

Underflap

3. Decide which will be the underflap of the zipper.

4. Fold the underflap wrong sides together from the seam allowance to 5/8″ from the clip at the top of the Center Front line. This should make the underflap fold evenly.

5. Apply glue stick to underside of the folded flap and attach to zipper as close to the teeth as possible.

6. Sew fabric to zipper as close to the teeth as possible.

Overflap

7. Fold other flap under from center clip to bottom of opening. (Figure 3)

8. Match clips and pin folded edges flat to front.

9. Use a glue stick to apply glue stick to the loose top of the zipper and apply the top to the overflap, making the top parallel to the zipper.

10. Lay garment flat, feel for edge of zipper. Using the zipper package as a straight edge, mark stitching line, stopping 3″ from the end with removable pen, pencil, or chalk (Figure 4).

11. Using the bottom curve of the zipper package as a template, finish drawing the stitching line, ending at the bottom of the opening.

12. Beginning at the top, sew over the drawn line for 2″ and stop.

Fabric Manipulation for Zippers

Practice manipulating the fabric while sewing to prevent wrinkles on the overlap section as shown in Figure 5.

As the foot slides on the fabric, it presses on one side of the needle only. This exerts an uneven push and shoves fabric on the foot side faster than the other, thus creating the diagonal wrinkles that often happen along the overlap piece.

Preventing this problem requires handling. Note that this hold will seem awkward at first, but with a little practice you will love the results.

After the zipper is in place, begin sewing from the top down and continue about 2″. Stop sewing and with your hands flat on the surface of the fabric, push the side that the foot rests on toward the back about 1″.
Wrinkles will form on the surface, but will equalize with the force of the foot.
Sew forward about 3″ allowing your hands to move evenly with the fabric.
Stop, readjust your hands in the same way for the next section, and repeat this process until you reach the end of the zipper.
Turn at an angle and sew to the seam.
Reduce the stitch length to 0 and make 3 or 4 stitches.
After removing from the machine, pull both threads to the back, then pull apart to cinch knot.

~Gale Grigg Hazen, edited from an article that appeared in a previous issue of Notions

August 25, 2023

Patch as Patch Can: Hole-y Jeans

We all have our favorite garments to wear and sometimes we just wear them too long and they show the signs of their preferred status. Jeans are one of those garments in most wardrobes. But don’t give up and toss them—instead get creative to patch them so you can keep them longer.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with wearing holey jeans, if you like the look. Some people pay big bucks for such detailing. But, if it’s not your preferred look and wear has just taken its toll on your favorite duds, get creative. (1)

Denim is made from two different color threads—often dark blue and white, or blue and another color. You may be able to see the two colors in a worn or holey area. (2)

Take advantage of the two-color threads for a fun patched look. (3)

For a quick and easy fix, simply sew a pre-made patch over the worn or torn area using a simple straight stitch. (4)

For a little more artsy look, create your own patches from old jean “parts”, utilizing existing seams and topstitching. (5)

If you have a large spot to cover, make a collage of jean parts, including the belt loops, for some added fun. (6)

Layer patches made from different denims, and hand stitch around the edges. (7)

Use narrow contrast strips to hide tears and make an art statement at the same time. (8)

Combine underlay patches with decorative hand stitching for a fun look. (9)

Use coordinating denim and make some patches using the decorative stitches built into your sewing machine, then zigzag the edges in place over the affected area. (10)

If you need to reinforce your jean tear or hole due to its size, add a layer of either fusible or sew-in interfacing under the affected area before you begin the mending process. It will help keep things together and give you something to anchor into. Trim any excess once it’s anchored. (11)

If the threads are still intact in the worn area, use them as a design feature. Add a layer underneath and stitch back and forth over the threaded area to anchor. (12)

Trim the threads around the patched area… (13)

Or, leave them ragged, depending on the look you like. (14 & 15)

Extend the stitching around the patched area, so the repair looks purposeful. (16)

Or, if you prefer a neater edge, turn under the outer edges and stitch to the lower layer. (17)

However you choose to fix your jeans, just be sure to give them a little love and they’ll last you for a while longer. (18)

August 18, 2023

Fiber Fun Scarves

Thread lace made on water soluble stabilizer. Photo courtesy of Sulky.

If you love fabric, there’s also a good chance that you love fibers of all kinds—yarns, novelty threads, ribbons, trims, cords, etc. Assuming that’s the case and perhaps you have some of those things in your stash, making your own scarves is a fun way to showcase a medley of those fun fibers.

Here’s what you need:

Two pieces of water-soluble stabilizer in the length and width you want your finished scarf. Fringe can overhang the length of the stabilizer. Self-adhesive types make the process easier.
Assorted yarns, threads, ribbons, trims serger chains and/or fabric bits to fill the stabilizer size. The patterning can be random or planned, dense or sparse, depending on the desired finished look.
Thread for stitching. Lots of options—embroidery thread, all-purpose thread, metallic thread, novelty thread, etc.; solid color or variegated.
Temporary spray adhesive if your stabilizer isn’t adhesive backed.

About the Stabilizer

Water-soluble stabilizer comes in several styles and weights—some are clear and film-like (think kitchen plastic wrap), others are more paper-like. For this project, the clear or slightly opaque stabilizers provide better visibility than the denser ones. Unless you plan dense stitching, the lighter weight ones work fine.

Some stabilizers are self-adhesive, meaning you can peel away a paper backing to expose the sticky side.
To make any water-soluble stabilizer sticky, use an allover temporary spray adhesive.
Water-soluble stabilizer came up to about 20” wide, depending on the brand and the packaging. For this project, that width is more than generous. Some water-soluble stabilizers are actually marketed as toppers for embroidery, but they will work fine for this project.

Yarns and threads on water-soluble stabilizer. Photos courtesy of Sulky.

Design Notes

Fabric strip add-ins will fray less if they’re cut on the bias. But, if you like a frayed look, cut them on the straight grain. You can even fringe them before securing.

It’s not required to have ribbons, trims and yarn—you can simply create a scarf using stitching all over the stabilizer. If you opt for this technique, use a single layer of heavier stabilizer.
You can use multiple types and colors of threads to stitch together your scarf.
Want a bit more texture in your scarf? Incorporate wool yarn—it can shrink when you’re rinsing out the stabilizer and make a most interesting surface texture.

Making the Project

Lay out one length of stabilizer on a large table. Remember, the stabilizer should be the length you want the finished scarf, excluding any fringe. If your stabilizer is self-adhesive, place that side up.
If your stabilizer isn’t self-adhesive, spray the exposed surface with temporary spray adhesive. It’s a good idea to cover your work surface with paper before layout, to protect from overspray.
Cut the yarns, threads, etc. to the finished scarf length and position them on the stabilizer in a pleasing pattern. To keep the scarf shape, use a sturdy ribbon or trim along the outer edges. The design can be free-form and the strands can overlap, twist, etc. or they can be placed parallel to each other, or in a grid pattern depending on the desired look. You can throw in some fabric bits, stranded sequins or beads too. {pic of yarns laid out}
If you want the scarf ends to be fringed, extend the length of the strands beyond the stabilizer length the desired distance on both ends.
Spray the remaining length of stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive (if it’s not self-adhesive) and place that piece face down on your arranged fibers. Finger-press the layers together to encase all the yarns.
Stitch the layers together. For the best stability of the finished scarf, stitch every ¼” or so. Stitching lines can go horizontally, vertically, diagonally and combinations of those, created either free-motion or using the presser foot. Just be sure to catch all the yarns in at least one direction. If you added beads or sequins, stitch near or over them carefully to avoid breaking a needle.
Sew continuous lines of stitching, without breaking the thread at the scarf ends. This technique is much faster and there are fewer thread ends to deal with. You can secure all the embellishments and keep going until you finish covering the entire surface with thread.
Once you’re satisfied with the look of the scarf, thoroughly rinse away the stabilizers following the manufacturer’s instructions. More than one rinsing may be needed.
Lay the scarf out flat on a towel to dry. Trim and knot the fringe if needed.