ASG has a long-standing commitment to inclusivity. During these times of change, we publicly reaffirm our commitment to diversity and welcome all to our sewing family.
Click here to view our Sensitivity Statement
ASG has a long-standing commitment to inclusivity. During these times of change, we publicly reaffirm our commitment to diversity and welcome all to our sewing family.
Click here to view our Sensitivity Statement
Whether you’re making a flirty tutu, a long flowing wedding veil or decorating for a bridal shower, it’s likely some tulle will be involved in the process.
Like its netting cousin, tulle is an openwork fabric sporting allover holes for a transparent look. Netting has larger holes than tulle and it’s usually stiffer. Both are usually made from nylon, though some other fibers are often found in specialty stores. Both netting and tulle are available in wide widths—from 54” to 108”, so it’s economical to use both for garments and home décor.
When tulle is used in garments, it’s often used either over another fabric, or it’s used in multiple layers for deeper color and modesty. A single layer of tulle is almost invisible.
Tulle has no grain so pieces can be cut any direction. It also doesn’t ravel, so edges do not require finishing, unless for decorative purposes. Trims, such as lace, are often applied over the raw edges of tulle for interest and additional weight. When used on veils or as ruffles, tulle often has serged rolled hems and fishing line can be added for undulating edges.
Tulle edges can be scratchy, especially around a multi-layered gathered waistline, and kids are the first to express their discomfort with aplomb. Waistlines of tulle skirts are easily bound with ribbon or fabric to prevent the itchy distress.
Because of its fiber content, tulle requires extra care during pressing to remove any bolt wrinkles. It’s a good idea not to press directly on the tulle, but instead use a lightweight pressing cloth and a low-temperature iron. Before committing to a pressing method, test on some scraps.
To cut tulle, it’s best to use a rotary cutter, ruler and mat for a perfectly straight and even edge. Cutting with scissors can leave uneven or jagged edges. Hold the fabric in place with weights or a ruler while cutting. If you’re cutting more intricate shapes (other than the most-often used rectangles), pin tissue under the fabric, then cut through both at once to maintain the shape needed.
Seaming tulle can be challenging, as the layers may try to shift at your machine. Large, flat-head pins can help, as can spring clips to hold the edges in place. If those don’t work, then add a layer or tissue paper or water-soluble stabilizer under the area to be seamed.
Speaking of seaming, with tulle being translucent, all seams are obvious. It’s best to opt for a narrow seam with exactly matching thread, or even clear thread. However, sewing a narrow seam is not without its challenges either—often best to sew a slightly wider seam, then trim to make it narrower.
Use a small needle for tulle sewing and a longer than normal stitch length. If the toes of the presser foot tend to catch on the fabric’s holes, put transparent tape on the bottom of the presser foot, or switch to a roller foot for unhindered feeding.
Gathering can be done my machine or by hand. If you’re gathering by hand, use a large needle and a heavier thread and make even stitches through the mesh openings. Threads can easily pull out in the gathering process so be sure to knot securely at one end. Or, if your tulle project has a layer of other fabric with it, gather both at the same time for easier handling.
If you’re trying to apply a trim to a cut edge of tulle, prevent slipping by using a fabric glue stick to secure the trim in place before sewing.
In addition to the usual places you find tulle, it’s also a good base to use for machine embroidered laces and trims. Pair it with a water-soluble stabilizer to hold it in place for stitching, then remove once the design is completed. Look for designs specifically digitized for lace.
Tulle is also ideal for gift wrapping—you can purchase it in spooled strips of varying widths to tie up packages and wrap chairs for festive occasions. Use it as you would ribbons and scrunch and tie as desired. Strips of tulle are also ideal for making small gift bags to hold holiday treats or favors—just seam both sides and tie the top. Tulle strips can also be used to make fluffy pompoms and flowers for party décor.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
We’re not talking about aerobics, but using elastic thread! Building stretch into a garment is easy with this thin, stretchy strand and a little ingenuity. Sections of your project, like yokes, sleeves, cuffs, waistlines and bodices are all likely candidates for shirring.
Shirring refers to sewing multiple parallel rows of stitching using elastic thread in the bobbin.
Shirring works best with lightweight fabrics, like voile, linen, etc., but you can also do it on lightweight denims and silks.
Look for elastic thread at the notions counter of your favorite store. It’s available in black and white. Some knitting stores may offer elastic thread in other colors. If you have elastic thread in your stash, double check it before use, as elastic can deteriorate over time.
Wind the bobbin by hand, not using the machine’s standard mechanism. Don’t stretch the thread while winding, but also don’t let it be too loose or you won’t get good shirring results. Fill the bobbin as far as possible, but be sure the thread doesn’t extend beyond the bobbin edge. If you’re doing a large project, wind multiple bobbins at once.
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and thread it like normal. Place regular thread in the top of the machine. Set the stitch length from 3 to 5mm for test stitching.
Test-stitch on the right side of the fabric and adjust the stitch length and tension as needed to get a look you like.
Draw lines on the right side of your project so that the stitched rows begin and end inside the seam allowance of the garment. You can draw multiple lines, or use a quilting guide for spacing, or the width of the presser foot.
Pull out about 2” of elastic and top thread to begin the stitched row. Sew along the first marked line, sewing slower than you normally do. At the end of the row, pull out 2” of elastic thread and top thread as well. Do not use the automatic thread cutter with elastic thread and do not backstitch. Tie off the threads on both ends of the stitching line. Repeat for all the marked lines, keeping the fabric flat as you stitch subsequent rows.
If you run out of bobbin thread while sewing, simply tie off the thread ends and start sewing with a new bobbin where you left off. Anchor the new threads in the same manner by tying off securely.
When all rows are stitched, steam the elasticized area to create the final shirring effect. Set the iron for steam and simply hover it over the stitched area right side to set the stitching and elastic in place. The steam causes the elastic thread to shrink up the shirring a bit.
Sew the seam crossing the stitched rows and stitch again 1/8” from the first line to securely anchor the ends.
Elastic thread can be machine washed and dried at temperatures under 200°. Do not put the iron directly on the elastic, as it can be damaged by higher heat.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
Join ASG Board Member, Sheryl Belson, in this fireside chat with Gail Yellen of Gail Patrice Designs. Gail offers a collection of patterns, teaches a wide range of classes and workshops, authored the book, Serger Essentials, and has a YouTube channel where she offers videos called Serger Tip Clips. ASG members can receive a special discount using her discount code found in the members only area! Gail is a wealth of information!
~Sheryl Belson
Not all tailored garments are lined so that the interior seams are covered. Some are unlined, either because of the construction or style—think lightweight wool jacket or loosely woven wool wrap coat for spring.
Without a full lining to cover the interior seams, they’re subject to abrasion and potential fraying, depending on the fabric weave. This can affect longevity and certainly the appearance of the garment. One solution is a Hong Kong seam finish.
This finish can also be used on fully lined garments, just to neaten and keep seam allowances from potentially fraying under the lining. And it’s ideal for sportier garments too, like denim.
It’s like a bound seam, with individual seam allowance edges encased with lightweight fabric, like silk or other lining material to hide the raw edges. A bound seam uses a double layer of fabric to encase the edges, but a Hong Kong finish uses a single layer. The lightweight fabric can match the garment or contrast for a bit of fun, and can be solid or print.
The technique works on straight and curved seams. Because there’s a single fabric layer covering the fabric edge, cutting the finishing strips on the bias prevents fraying and allows for curved shaping.
The Hong Kong finish is ideal not only for seam allowances, but also for encasing facing edges and hems. Use this technique on seams that are already sewn and on completed facings before attaching them to the garment.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
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