Our short video on using the Bias Tape Tool will show you how to make your own bias tape, but do you know how to join your fabric to create the bias strips? This video will show you how.
~© ASG; Sheryl Belson, Plano Chapter
Tailoring Tricks, Part 1
So, you want to tailor a coat or jacket, but you’re not sure what that involves, but willing to take the leap.
There are basically two types of tailoring: traditional work with tedious hand stitching or fusible tailoring where you let technology do the “stitching” for you. While the former is worthy of the effort, most first-time tailoring adventures are successfully done with fusible techniques.
Choose Wisely!
Wool or a wool blend is the best choice for a tailored garment, as it’s easily shaped with steam and good pressing techniques. Preshrink your wool selection prior to sewing—easily done by asking your dry cleaner to steam press it for you, though some wools are washable, so check the label first.- Select quality interfacings. A woven hair canvas type is ideal for jacket or coat lapels and collars, and to stabilize some hem edges. Different weights are available to match up with the fabric weight, and it’s available in fusible for a quick application. It’s also available in sew-in if you prefer to hand stitch. Preshrink the interfacing by soaking in warm water for 30 minutes and lying flat to dry.
- Lining helps tailored garments hold their shape during repeated wearings, and it covers up the inside construction detailing. A satin-finish lining makes it easy to get the garment on and off over sweaters or other garments.
- Look for great fasteners for your tailored garment—beautiful buttons, fun snaps or hooks are ideal choices. Make your selection before starting the garment as it affects the closure construction, like the size of buttonholes or reinforcement needed for novelty closures.
- In addition to conventional thread for construction of your project, you may want to select a heavier weight for topstitching, either in a matching color or contrast, depending on the desired look.
Pattern Picks
- All major and many independent companies offer patterns for tailored garments. Coat and jacket patterns are made to fit over other garments, so purchase your usual size. Because wool or other tailoring fabrics can be costly, it’s best to test-fit the garment pattern before cutting your fashion fabric. Tissue-fit or make a muslin and note any fitting changes needed on the final pattern.
- Follow the pattern guidesheet for cutting, but if the layout allows, cut 1” seam allowances on side and under the arm seams, just to allow for adjustment if needed to accommodate thicker fabric. Be sure to use the “with nap” layout to avoid obvious shading on the finished garment. If the fabric is very thick, cut out single-layer pieces, remembering to flip the pattern for a right and left side.
- Transfer all markings to the cut pieces using chalk, removable marker or thread tailor tacks. If you can’t tell the right from the wrong side, mark them for consistency.
- If your wool is lightweight, staystitch any bias and curved edges to avoid them stretching during handling. This line of regular-length stitching is done just barely inside the seam line so it doesn’t show in the finished garment.
Pressing Matters
- You’ll be doing a lot of pressing as you construct a tailored garment, as that’s part of the shaping process. Use steam to help shape the wool—either the steam setting on your iron, or a dry iron with a damp press cloth. Do not press wool with a dry iron alone. Test-press some scraps to see which works best for your fabric, as some wools can develop an unsightly shine if pressed directly with the iron.
- Because of the bulk, it’s best to press seams open, unless the garment style dictates pressing to one side and topstitching to make a sporty mock flat-felled seam.
~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .
Cozying up to Cotton
Cotton is the natural fiber from the seedpod of the cotton plants. This versatile fiber is used to make well over 90 different fabrics from calico to canvas, charmeuse to denim, velveteen, poplin, cotton jersey and much more. Cotton fabrics can be silky or rough, smooth or textured, thick or sheer, completely indestructible or lavishly luxurious. It’s soft, yet strong, is moisture absorbent and accepts dye beautifully. Cotton is also breathable, making it a great summer fabric, and is comfortable to wear. It releases odors easily, making it the perfect fabric to use in workout wear.
On the down side, cotton shrinks, may bleed and, unless blended with something else, often ends up a wrinkled mess. To counteract some of these disadvantages, cotton fabric is commonly treated with special finishes and you may see wording on the bolt end along the lines of “water repellent,” “shrink resistant,” “durable press” and more.
Pre-shrinking
Many cottons will shrink the first 2-3 times they are washed so taking time to pre-shrink your fabrics (and notions, interfacings and linings too!) will help to prevent potential problems with the finished product. Even if the fabric is labeled “needle ready” or “preshrunk,” preshrinking is often still recommended to wash out any fabric treatments that could end up being skin irritants.
What to Look For
When shopping for cotton yardage, look for a tight weave and straight grain. Lengthwise and crosswise threads should intersect at true right angles. Prints should be clear and printed plaids should be straight. Watch for one-way designs, nap, or luster that might require a one-way layout when cutting out your pattern. Adjust fabric yardage accordingly, keeping both shrinkage and layout in mind.
Helpful Tips
- Wash your cottons in cool to warm water to prevent further shrinkage.
- Don’t use fabric softener as it can dull the finish and cause fabrics to lose their shape.
- Dry on low to medium heat.
- Air dry flannel or, if using a dryer is necessary, use low heat.
- Wash jeans inside-out in cold water and keep them out of the dryer.
- If you want to avoid the iron and still have wrinkle-free clothes, intercept them halfway through the dry cycle and hang them up to complete the drying process.
~Copyright © 2019
Stash Busting: Take UFO’s Off the Radar
We all have a stash of projects in drawers, on shelves and in containers that have been started but never quite crossed the finish line. ASG member, Hope Wright, had a stash of UFO’s and a plan and now she’s sharing her tips and hints on how an online challenge in 2011 inspired her to finish an unprecedented 926 projects. (Yes, 926!)
Here’s Hope’s story…
Sort, Sort, Sort
I first started in 2011 during a challenge from an on-line group. Attempting to use only “from my stash,” I first gathered all the projects I had already started in to one place. I then sorted them by estimating how long it would take to finish each project. The first group were projects that would take just an hour to finish. Next came projects that could be done in an evening after work. Finally, projects I could do on a Saturday.
By using this system, I have completed 926 projects to date. I do add projects to my stash, but I try very hard to finish everything I think I can complete in an evening or on a Saturday morning. Longer projects still await!
Organize
Organize your kits, stash and tools in some way that makes sense to you, or at least gather them together so you can find them. For me, I have most of my tools and gadgets in a bookcase in my sewing room.
Try organizing your projects by type of material, where to work, time it will take to complete, color, expense, etc. Group projects that are repetitive. For example, cut out several projects in one session and make your own kits.
Get rid of anything you have no desire or need to finish. Take that group and consider if someone else may want it for their UFO stash. I’ve given several boxes of supplies to a school art program. Remember, it’s also okay to just put it in the trash!
Make Three Lists
Projects to get to this coming year.- Projects, ideas, and stash in storage. This includes actual kits you have and ideas to do “someday” – or as one person said, her Craft Retirement Account.
- Projects completed. It is great to see what you’ve accomplished!
Categorize Active Projects
An important function for me is that I always actively work on 3 projects at any one time, with 3 to 9 more in line so I never have “down” time. Everything else remains stored away; anything more than 12 is simply too overwhelming. My active projects are categorized by where I can do them:
- Something to do at home, but can’t be done in front of the TV (such as using the cutting table or sewing machine). These are often things I do on the weekend rather than after work. Many projects then move to the next category.
- Something I can work on while listening to TV, such as pressing, hand sewing, or embroidery. Some projects then move to the next category.
- Something I can do in a waiting room, meeting, or traveling. These projects are easy to stop at any point, small to pack or carry, do not require extra light, magnification, or a table to spread out. I always have a project in a tote bag with all supplies to be able to work on it. I nearly always keep one in the car.
Projects with Deadlines
I work on anything with a deadline first, even if I have a lot of time. It is much better to finish something six months early than a day late. Between all my clubs and church, I do a dozen or more programs and deadline projects during a year. I put them first on my “to do” list on January 1 and indicate the deadline.
Finally, I also look at promises already made before I agree to do something more. I try to finish Christmas gifts before Thanksgiving week so I can enjoy holiday parties. Since most groups have their programs planned a year at a time, I know I will start working in December on programs for the coming year. I will seldom start anything else until they are done. Find what works for you to take those UFO’s off your radar!
~© Hope Wright, ASG Member
Spreading the Skill of Sewing in Kansas City
We love sharing stories from ASG chapters!
This wonderful article came to us from the Kansas City chapter. It offers inspiration and shows, once again, how generous ASG members are with their knowledge and time.
The Kansas City North Neighborhood group found a great audience for teaching sewing at the North Kansas City library. With funding help from the Rotarians, the NKC library had created a maker space with a dozen sewing machines, cutting tables, irons and cabinets of fabrics and other supplies. After one of our members, Barb Lea, started teaching a bimonthly quilting class at the library, group leader Jan Letkowski had the idea that teaching others to sew would be a challenging and worthwhile endeavor in addition to our efforts of sewing quilts and other items for charity.
In the spring of 2019, Jan, Melba Nicolaisen and Phyllis Carlyle visited Amy Brown, director of programming at the library. The library had been teaching projects twice a month, plus offering open sewing times and Amy was thrilled to learn that skilled sewists were interested in outreach education to their patrons. We were happy to see a well-equipped space with quality Janome machines, Oliso irons, task lamps and a box of tools at each sewing machine.
Getting Started
We initially committed to teaching three classes, July through September. Each class would be taught by a team to involve as many of our members as possible.
Phyllis Carlyle volunteered to lead the first class on fused machine applique for clothing, accessories and home dec. Ten students showed up to hear about the materials and techniques for successful machine applique. With the assistance of Bonnie Anderson and Sandy Cahill, the students made test samples using provided patterns from a 4 page handout. It was gratifying to see some of the students go beyond the basics and at the end, director Amy Brown asked for the class to be taught again. We were so excited!
For the next class, Sharon Lair and Linda Gregg presented a workshop on making snap bags. Patrons enjoyed sewing these small bags using printed cottons and metal measuring tape pieces for the closure. It was a perfectly sized project for an evening class with lots of gifting possibilities.
Then, in September, Jan Letkowski and Vicki Portwood presented a class on sewing basics: seam finishes, gathering techniques, making a perfect patch pockets, and learning to read patterns and follow instructions. Once again, attendees loved seeing samples of our favorite tools and supplies. This class was so popular, the participants begged Jan and Vicki to return so they took Holiday sewing projects to the open sewing session the following week.
Sewists Want to Sew
Library patrons at these sessions range from teens to seniors, mostly beginners, with a variety of sewing skills. For some, this is their only access to sewing machines. Our experience has shown that the patrons at the sessions WANT TO SEW! We are mixing in skill-building during each session, but find we need to take at least one project or sample for them to try. In addition, some of our members are attending the scheduled informal open sewing sessions to offer assistance to anyone who shows up.
More Community Outreach
In addition to teaching at the library, the group also volunteers at The Sewing Lab, a non-profit community resource center providing classes and jobs training in sewing-related arts in the KC urban community. Melba Nicolaisen, Linda Gregg and Vicki Portwood have been assisting with teaching classes to immigrants. The students from the Don Bosco center are hard workers who are eager to learn and they appreciate our help. Manager, Linnca Stephens, loves having volunteers who relieve the class teacher of many mundane tasks such as problems with the machines so they can concentrate on instruction. There are many teaching, learning and donating opportunities all over and we encourage members to get involved in sharing the life skills and creativity of sewing that we love.
~Phyllis Carlyle, Kansas City Chapter of ASG
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