Learn to Sew – Page 4

July 28, 2021

Matching Fabric Patterns Across Seams

Ever wondered how to line-up/match the pattern of your fabric across seams? This 1-minute tutorial is a sure fire way to get it right!

June 13, 2021

Sewing Basics: Sewing Machine Terms

It’s National Sewing Machine Day! Spend 17 minutes with us in this video and learn about 6 different parts of your sewing machine. Want to learn more? If you aren’t a member already, we hope you’ll consider joining ASG — we would love to meet and sew with you!

~Sheryl Belson

June 4, 2021

Selvages: On the Edge

What is the selvage?

Selvages are the edges of woven fabrics—the place where the weft (crosswise) threads turn around to form the next row during the weaving process. Some selvages are thicker than the fabric itself, as often there are more threads per inch at the edges to help keep the edges straight during the weaving process.

Think of your fabric’s selvage as its DNA, with important information about it you may need to know.

Selvages may be the same color as the fabric, or they may be a contrast. Interestingly, contrast threads are sometimes woven in the selvages. On some velvets and velveteens, you may see metallic threads along the edges.

On high quality and imported fabrics, sometimes the requisite information like fiber content and country of origin is actually woven into the selvage in a contrasting thread color.

Selvages information — Image used with permission from Marcy Tilton

Selvages are not always straight—they can be fringed or looped, depending on the type of loom used and the finishing processes.

On fabric like denim where the warp (lengthwise) threads are a different color than the crosswise threads, the selvages may be totally different looking than the fabric body itself.

Information, please

You can find a variety of information bits on most selvages, but some have none. Look for the brand name, the designer’s name and sometimes the fiber content and/or care instructions, like “dry clean only.” You may also find the date the fabric design was copyrighted, and on printed fabrics, you may see lots of colored dots or shapes along the edge. These fun indicators tell how many different color screens were used in the printing process of the particular fabric.

Some selvage edges include the website for the fabric brand or a social media reference. Designers have even been know to add an inspirational message on the selvage.
In addition, home décor fabrics may show an indication of the repeat of the pattern, and sometimes an arrow showing which direction is up in the patterning.

Saving Selvages

Because of their tighter weave, the selvages may shrink differently from the fabric itself, so many people just cut the selvages off before cutting out the project.

While you can certainly trim and toss them, you can also use them creatively. If your project has a straight seam edge, you can cut it on the selvage to avoid raveling and perhaps add a decorative touch to the seam edge. A pant leg seam or a loose fitting, straight-cut jacket would be two great places to cut on the selvage for pre-finished seam allowances. Selvages are also a great edge for pockets or straight hems, either exposed for interest, or just as an edge finish.

Trimmed selvages are often used to stabilize a stretchy area—like a shoulder seam in a knit T-shirt. Lightweight woven selvages, like silk organza, are ideal for this use, as they’re sheer and don’t add a lot of bulk as they span the seamline. Interesting cut-off selvages can also be “reapplied” to an area as a decorative trim, often combined with ribbons, braids or decorative stitching. Fun selvages are also great to insert as a flat piping.

Selvages (with some attached fabric width) can also be used for bindings or garment ties.

Quilting Ideas

If you’re a quilter, perhaps you keep all your cotton selvages for other projects. It’s easy to strip piece them together on a lightweight backing to make quilt blocks or other projects. When you trim the selvage, leave at least ¼” beyond the actual selvage and use that for joining. Layer the strips one edge over the other and zigzag the edges in place through the backing until you fill the space needed.

Crafting Ideas

For crafting, trimmed selvages are ideal for decoupaging onto projects—like basic tennies {photo}, picture frames, boxes, vases, etc. Just overlap the raw edge portion and seal with the medium.

Holey Moley

What are those holes along the selvage? They’re called tenter holes and they’re used to hold the fabric to a frame during the printing and finishing processes.

~Linda Griepentrog
Linda is the owner of G Wiz Creative Services and she does writing, editing and designing for companies in the sewing, crafting and quilting industries. In addition, she escorts fabric shopping tours to Hong Kong. She lives at the Oregon Coast with her husband Keith, and two dogs, Yohnuh and Abby. Contact her at .

February 5, 2021

Rockin’ those Ruffles

If you dig deep into the drawers in your sewing cabinet, you might find a rather strange looking attachment called a ruffler. This funny looking attachment hasn’t changed much in the decades since its invention—perhaps yours is generic or maybe brand specific.

If you’re not a fan of pulling up basting threads to gather, the ruffler will be your new BFF, as it can both precisely gather and make perfect pleats and tucks. In addition, it can do those tasks while attaching that layer to a flat base fabric—all at once.

Sew Many Parts

The ruffler attaches to your machine like other presser feet. Several parts are the secret to successful ruffling, so double check your owner’s manual for their location on your attachment. The fork arm that has to be positioned over the needle bar to enable the ruffler to do its work. In addition, there is a depth adjuster (either a screw or a dial) and it controls the depth of the gathers or pleats. There’s also a spacer that works in conjunction with the depth adjuster to count stitches and determine the fullness spacing. On most rufflers, the spacer has number designation like 1, 6, 12 or 0. If it’s set to 1, there will be a tuck every stitch; if it’s set to 6, there will be a tuck every sixth stitch, etc.

Ruffler Spacer | Photo courtesy of Bernina

The ruffler has a blade with tiny sharp teeth to move the fabric and there’s also a separator blade to keep the ruffling separate from any base fabric you might be attaching it to. Most rufflers offer several threading guides to allow for proper positioning of the stitches from the ruffle raw edge.

Stitch Length

In addition to changing the ruffler depth and spacer settings, note that the ruffles, pleats and tucks are also determined by the stitch length setting. So, because of all the variables associated with this attachment, it’s imperative to test stitch to get a look you like. Make some samples using your project fabric and vary the stitch length, but keep the depth the same, and keep the stitch length the same, but vary the depth.

Planning Ahead

Unlike using gathering threads, the ruffler’s fullness is not adjustable once it’s stitched, so test stitching is important for each project, as the fabric weight can affect the outcome as well.
Be sure to finish the edge/edges of the fabric you’re ruffling prior to running it through the ruffler. Ruffles can be single- or double-layer depending on the fabric weight. If you’re attaching the ruffle to a base fabric in the same operation, wait to finish the edges together after the application.
Because the ruffler allows you to create yards of tucked, pleated or gathered fabric quickly, it’s ideal for big projects like curtain ruffles, costumes, full skirts, pillows, etc.
Make yourself a sample notebook using various fabrics and various ruffler settings so you have a starting place for future projects, and a good reference for how the look changes with numerous adjustments. And, it goes without saying, that you’ll want to consult your owner’s manual and the attachment instruction book for complete details of the operations and settings on your particular machine.

January 29, 2021

Slick Tricks: Working with Laminated Fabrics

If you’re looking to make that perfect raincoat, try one of the great laminated fabrics on the market today. Colorful cottons with a clear coating are ideal for rainy weather attire, and a host of other projects from cosmetic bags to totes and aprons.

And you have options—laminated cottons come with either a matte finish or a glossy finish, depending on the brand and the desired look. In many instances, the same print is available in a non-laminated version, so that you can use it for facings, hood linings, binding, etc.

Although they do require some care when sewing, there’s nothing off-putting about these fun fabrics. Just be sure to purchase a laminated cotton, as opposed to traditional oilcloth fabric which has a heavier mesh base and is best suited for home décor items.

The coating on laminates makes them water resistant (not waterproof), and it keeps seam allowances from fraying. Some coatings are lightweight and others a bit heavier, so select the fabric by the intended use. Softer coatings are ideal for garments, as they’re more flexible than heavier ones.

Preparation

When choosing a pattern, look for simple lines and few seams, as well as raglan sleeves vs. set-in. There’s no room for error with laminates, so be sure the pattern fits you.

When you cut out your project, opt for pattern weights instead of pins, unless you keep them only within the seamlines as the marks are permanent.

Mark with chalk or soap slivers and never a tracing wheel, as that can damage the coating.

Sewing

There are some helpful notions for stitching these sticky fabrics. Spring clips, such as Wonder Clips, help hold layers in place without pinning, as do coated paperclips.

If sticking is an issue, opt for a non-stick presser foot, or put tape on the bottom of a regular foot to keep it moving. Sticking becomes an issue usually only if you’re sewing with the right side up, otherwise, the fabric should move smoothly under the foot.

Adjust the stitch length to slightly longer than normal and use a small needle to avoid large holes in the fabric.

Pressing isn’t an option for most laminates, so keep the iron away. To keep the seams flat, finger-press, then topstitch, either open or with seam allowances to one side. Topstitching is also recommended for all edges to keep them flat.

Finishing

If your raincoat requires buttonholes, interface the area with a sew-in interfacing (not fusible) and use the setting on your machine that produces a buttonhole with simply straight stitching around the slit. Any dense satin stitching can damage the fabric.

For hems, there’s no need to finish the edge as the lamination keeps the fabric from fraying—just turn up the hem evenly, clip it in place and sew one or two rows of stitching evenly from the folded edge.

On a tote, bound edges work perfectly—not only are they easy to do, but they also reduce the bulk of multiple laminate layers on turned-and-stitched edges.